Our last stop was Shanghai. In the morning we went to the museum which features Chinese furniture, calligraphy, art, porcelain, silver, etc. We all opted for less time there so we would have more time in a local market that afternoon.
Just before lunch we went to a silk factory which was fascinating. Single cocoons yield a single strand of silk. Cocoons are soaked in boiling them cool water. About 5 at a time bob in the water as the strand of silk is caught into a bobbin and spun together. The worm does not fare so well. Double cocoons have two strands already woven together so this silk is removed and stretched. It is then layered with many others until it makes enough batting for the filling for a comforter. We bought one for us and one for Alisha.
After lunch we skipped the Rodeo Drive type market and headed for the Yuan Garden market which is just huge and full of all kinds of stuff. We made good use of our time as this was our last opportunity to buy things other than the airport.
That evening we attended an acrobatics show which is just impossible to describe. Absolutely the most amazing display of gymnastics and coordination any of us had ever seen.
Sadly, the day came to leave. We flew from Shanghai to Beijing where we expected to have a 3 hour layover. We had 15 minutes. The plane was late and then the bureaucracy took way longer than anyone expected or than it should have! Flight home was uneventful and then a 7 hour layover in San Francisco where we each spread out and slept. Plane to Portland was also a little late but not too bad and we arrived home exhausted.
Now we are trying to recover from jet lag which has not been easy. We have heard it can easily take two weeks which looks like a definite possibility as I write this one week later.
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Guilin-Hong Kong-Guangzhou-Hangzhou
There has literally been no time to enter into a blog much less go online. Either that or sleep and those who know me know that I will pick sleep anytime. A note on Beijing and Xi’an that I forgot- the air pollution is just awful. In Xi’an you can literally smell the coal. It was here that my sore throat set in and I caught the cold that a number of other folks have. Luckily it never got real bad.
Guilin was actually not as warm as we had all hoped and due to logistics we were without access to our main suitcases so at times it was quite chilly. Guilin is beautiful. It is only about 300,000 people and is surrounded by tall limestone cliffs. The first day we actually left to travel by river to the town of Yangshuo where we spent the night. It was 5 hours on the river to go 40 miles and included lunch. Unfortunately it was rather hazy so we did not get the full effects of the scenery but was still beautiful. The native folks are fishermen and use bamboo boats consisting of 4-6 long poles of bamboo lashed together to form a raft and curved up at the ends. We did notice some used PVC pipe instead. They even come up to the side of the boat and sell to the tourists this way. We traveled down a wide canyon between the cliffs- somewhat like our Grand Canyon but not quite as splendorous.
Yangshuo is a thriving tourist town with tourists from all over the world so there is an amazing market that stays open until midnight. We got to travel in extended golf carts into the countryside to see how the common folks live. It was quite interesting. Mao is still greatly revered and the old folks make their own coffins and keep them in their homes until needed. Pictures sometime! At night Josh went off with folks to explore including getting a massage. Gary and I went to an incredible sound and light show that uses the river and the mountains as the stage. It is produced by a Chinese director whose name is forgotten at the moment but he is working with Spielberg on the opening ceremonies for the Olympics. This seemed like warm up to that event. Absolutely spectacular and they use all local native people in the show with the exception of the main singer who is a professional.
The next day was spent exploring Guilin including a visit to the Reed Flute Cave which was beautiful. The cave formations are extremely interesting and the final one looks like a city scape which reflects into about 2 inches of water but looks like it goes forever.
From Guilin we flew to Hong Kong. The first day we were on an organized tour and went to Victoria Peak - once again followed by haze but still an amazing view. Hong Kong is what I had always read about and more. Never have I seen so many tall buildings and they just keeping building them taller. My Chinese is no good here but there is a lot of English so we are doing ok. After the Peak we drove to Typhoon Shelter and got on small boats that took us around the harbor to see how a group of native fishermen live. They live on boats and some of them NEVER go on dry land their entire lives. There is a large floating restaurant where they hold large ceremonial events such as weddings. We also saw some amazing yachts- quite the contrast. But that is China. Actually Hong Kong is described as 1 country, 2 systems with Hong Kong not having to change a thing for 50 years. The only things the Central Govt does is defense and foreign affairs. The hope is to convince Taiwan that the model can work. You go through customs to get out of China and then into Hong Kong which worked for me since my first visa expired on the day we left China.
We then drove past some amazing homes on the Cliffside and went to Stanley Market where we had pizza for lunch. It was really good to have a change of pace in terms of food. After lunch the bus returned to the hotel but we got off it early and went to see the Collier’s office in Hong Kong. It was on the 57th floor of an office building overlooking the harbor- just an amazing view.
We were on our own for the next day and a half. We spent the rest of Monday exploring Hong Kong Island. I had never known how hilly it was- as bad as San Francisco. This involved taking the metro where we hoped to experience the ladies in red whose primary function is to push/cram folks into the subway cars when it is busy. It was 4:30 but seems to have been too early for rush hour. We visited the Nan Mo Temple and then Hollywood and Cat streets where there are antique shops. Looking for a place to eat we found a nice Thai restaurant and had a great meal then took the longest covered escalator in the world which includes a series of 20 escalators that go down in the morning and up at night. Then we saw the 2 streets where there is every ethnic cuisine you can imagine. We settled for dessert and tea. We then made our way back to Kowloon where our hotel is. Josh caught the cold and while he doesn’t want to slow down agreed that an early night (10:30) would be a good idea. This involved taking a walkway that winds above the city. They got too crowded down below so went above ground- at least that’s our theory. We took the Star Ferry across which is only 5 minutes but an amazing view of the lights of Hong Kong behind us now all proclaiming Merry Christmas and Happy New Year which is the first sign we have seen of holiday hype.
Hong Kong is incredibly expensive- feels like US prices for everything which is a bit of a culture shock after a month in China. A taste of re-entry and it won’t be easy particularly coming back to face the Christmas rush.
Tuesday we explored Kowloon more which meant lots more markets. Gary and Josh got fitted for suits which will arrive in the States next week. Now Gary has to take me out somewhere. For dinner we crossed back over to Hong Kong and ate in a Nepalese restaurant. Sort of Indian but will slightly different spices. Very good!
Wednesday we took a Catamaran to a town near Guangzhou and then explored Guangzhou until going to the airport to fly to Hangzhou where we are now. In Guangzhou we visited a former temple which is now an arts and crafts center. Incredible ivory and bone carvings and embroidery.
From what we have seen of Hangzhou it appears to be a beautiful city. Tomorrow we go for a lake cruise and walk through a famously spectacular park and visit a tea plantation and silk factory then on to Shanghai where we plan to finish shopping and go to an acrobatics show. There is a trip to a famous museum on the itinerary but I am feeling museumed out so we’ll see.
Better post this before it’s too late then off to bed. This will be the last posting from China. I will probably post with final details of the trip after I get home as it is a good record of where we went and what we did.
First things I will do when I get home is have a salad and kiss my toilet (after kissing my animals first)- Those of you who have been to China will understand and the rest of you can ask for an explanation if you want but don’t feel obligated!
See some of you soon and will talk to others soon!
Guilin was actually not as warm as we had all hoped and due to logistics we were without access to our main suitcases so at times it was quite chilly. Guilin is beautiful. It is only about 300,000 people and is surrounded by tall limestone cliffs. The first day we actually left to travel by river to the town of Yangshuo where we spent the night. It was 5 hours on the river to go 40 miles and included lunch. Unfortunately it was rather hazy so we did not get the full effects of the scenery but was still beautiful. The native folks are fishermen and use bamboo boats consisting of 4-6 long poles of bamboo lashed together to form a raft and curved up at the ends. We did notice some used PVC pipe instead. They even come up to the side of the boat and sell to the tourists this way. We traveled down a wide canyon between the cliffs- somewhat like our Grand Canyon but not quite as splendorous.
Yangshuo is a thriving tourist town with tourists from all over the world so there is an amazing market that stays open until midnight. We got to travel in extended golf carts into the countryside to see how the common folks live. It was quite interesting. Mao is still greatly revered and the old folks make their own coffins and keep them in their homes until needed. Pictures sometime! At night Josh went off with folks to explore including getting a massage. Gary and I went to an incredible sound and light show that uses the river and the mountains as the stage. It is produced by a Chinese director whose name is forgotten at the moment but he is working with Spielberg on the opening ceremonies for the Olympics. This seemed like warm up to that event. Absolutely spectacular and they use all local native people in the show with the exception of the main singer who is a professional.
The next day was spent exploring Guilin including a visit to the Reed Flute Cave which was beautiful. The cave formations are extremely interesting and the final one looks like a city scape which reflects into about 2 inches of water but looks like it goes forever.
From Guilin we flew to Hong Kong. The first day we were on an organized tour and went to Victoria Peak - once again followed by haze but still an amazing view. Hong Kong is what I had always read about and more. Never have I seen so many tall buildings and they just keeping building them taller. My Chinese is no good here but there is a lot of English so we are doing ok. After the Peak we drove to Typhoon Shelter and got on small boats that took us around the harbor to see how a group of native fishermen live. They live on boats and some of them NEVER go on dry land their entire lives. There is a large floating restaurant where they hold large ceremonial events such as weddings. We also saw some amazing yachts- quite the contrast. But that is China. Actually Hong Kong is described as 1 country, 2 systems with Hong Kong not having to change a thing for 50 years. The only things the Central Govt does is defense and foreign affairs. The hope is to convince Taiwan that the model can work. You go through customs to get out of China and then into Hong Kong which worked for me since my first visa expired on the day we left China.
We then drove past some amazing homes on the Cliffside and went to Stanley Market where we had pizza for lunch. It was really good to have a change of pace in terms of food. After lunch the bus returned to the hotel but we got off it early and went to see the Collier’s office in Hong Kong. It was on the 57th floor of an office building overlooking the harbor- just an amazing view.
We were on our own for the next day and a half. We spent the rest of Monday exploring Hong Kong Island. I had never known how hilly it was- as bad as San Francisco. This involved taking the metro where we hoped to experience the ladies in red whose primary function is to push/cram folks into the subway cars when it is busy. It was 4:30 but seems to have been too early for rush hour. We visited the Nan Mo Temple and then Hollywood and Cat streets where there are antique shops. Looking for a place to eat we found a nice Thai restaurant and had a great meal then took the longest covered escalator in the world which includes a series of 20 escalators that go down in the morning and up at night. Then we saw the 2 streets where there is every ethnic cuisine you can imagine. We settled for dessert and tea. We then made our way back to Kowloon where our hotel is. Josh caught the cold and while he doesn’t want to slow down agreed that an early night (10:30) would be a good idea. This involved taking a walkway that winds above the city. They got too crowded down below so went above ground- at least that’s our theory. We took the Star Ferry across which is only 5 minutes but an amazing view of the lights of Hong Kong behind us now all proclaiming Merry Christmas and Happy New Year which is the first sign we have seen of holiday hype.
Hong Kong is incredibly expensive- feels like US prices for everything which is a bit of a culture shock after a month in China. A taste of re-entry and it won’t be easy particularly coming back to face the Christmas rush.
Tuesday we explored Kowloon more which meant lots more markets. Gary and Josh got fitted for suits which will arrive in the States next week. Now Gary has to take me out somewhere. For dinner we crossed back over to Hong Kong and ate in a Nepalese restaurant. Sort of Indian but will slightly different spices. Very good!
Wednesday we took a Catamaran to a town near Guangzhou and then explored Guangzhou until going to the airport to fly to Hangzhou where we are now. In Guangzhou we visited a former temple which is now an arts and crafts center. Incredible ivory and bone carvings and embroidery.
From what we have seen of Hangzhou it appears to be a beautiful city. Tomorrow we go for a lake cruise and walk through a famously spectacular park and visit a tea plantation and silk factory then on to Shanghai where we plan to finish shopping and go to an acrobatics show. There is a trip to a famous museum on the itinerary but I am feeling museumed out so we’ll see.
Better post this before it’s too late then off to bed. This will be the last posting from China. I will probably post with final details of the trip after I get home as it is a good record of where we went and what we did.
First things I will do when I get home is have a salad and kiss my toilet (after kissing my animals first)- Those of you who have been to China will understand and the rest of you can ask for an explanation if you want but don’t feel obligated!
See some of you soon and will talk to others soon!
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Beijing and Xi’an- Tue-Thur
Tuesday our big expedition was to the Great Wall. But, along the way was an unannounced stop at a jade factory and store. We think it was state owned and are 99.5% sure the tour company gets a kickback but how do you go capitalist without such maneuvers. We found some really cool jade balls within balls but the price was not to our liking. Enter, Josh at his finest. He ended up dealing for 10 and got a great discount. When we got to the bus he proceeded to proclaim its virtues and passed around a sample. By the time all was said and done we barely got to keep enough for ourselves and sold the rest with a couple of folks out in the cold. We didn’t make a profit but started a whole new spirit of community- power in numbers.
The Great Wall is, in a word, “awesome”. Just as amazing as everyone said it was. Gary made it far enough to earn a certificate for “climbing the wall” and Josh and I made it to “the top”. Words cannot describe the magnitude and incredibleness of this place and, of course, we were only experiencing a tiny piece of it. To think it goes for thousands more miles is just mind boggling. I got up there saying, this one is for you Kodi who would have scampered up like it was a playground. (Can you tell I miss him?)
On the way back we got the rare treat of driving through the Olympic Village under construction. We saw the bird nest stadium where the opening ceremonies will be, the swimming pavilion, track and field and other venues including the housing for the athletes. They have built huge luxury apartment buildings to house the athletes and have sold these to local folks who will move out during the Olympics (or maybe not move in until afterwards- it wasn’t clear) and then live in them afterwards.
In the afternoon we got a tour of the hutongs which are narrow alleyways with houses arranged around courtyards. I think it was the Manchurians who built these. They are tearing many of these down and forcing folks into high rises but are going to keep some as cultural icons. In order to do this they are putting a fresh face on the remaining ones in preparation for the Olympic Games. Everything happening in Beijing now is related to the Olympics and putting on a good face for the world. We got a guided walking tour then a rickshaw ride then a visit into one of the residences. The owner is a retired librarian from Beijing National Library- just can’t get away from them can I? The residences were owned by folks for hundreds of years then taken from them by Mao. Now 99% are owned by the government but some folks got to get theirs back from the government like this woman. It is a 16 room complex and we only saw about 5 of them. During Mao’s time the population of Beijing went from 100,000 to 9 million so hutong residences saw 5-11 people occupying each room with each person getting about 2 square meters of personal space. When the residences were returned to owners the “guests” were paid about 1 million rmb to relocate. There are no toilet or shower facilities within the residences but there is running hot and cold water. There are communal toilets on every block and showers are taken outside with hot water.
In the evening a group of us went walking and exploring. Around our hotel was pretty barren but we kept at it and finally hit a main area- found kettle corn, a supermarket, a KFC, 2 pizza huts although one only looked like one and didn’t say Pizza Hut but had Arabic writing on the sign which means they probably don’t serve pork and one Mr. Pizza.
Wednesday dawned very cold and very wet and did not improve. Luckily our only stop was the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor went twice a year to pray for and then thank “god” for a good harvest. Another amazing complex and architectural feat. The Temple itself is 38 meters high and 30 meters in diameter with no nails or concrete used. It is supported by 12 columns representing the months of the year.
We then flew to Xi’An where we had a very good dinner and then relaxed for the day ahead. In trying some of the Chinese candy Josh bought at the market, Teresa did break a crown but since Gary is traveling with a temporary crown, he just happened to have adhesive so all is well for now but it looks like a visit to a real dentist is imminent upon return. Could have been a whole lot worse!
Teresa’s camera also seems to not want to accept any batteries at all so we are now dependent on Alisha’s. The last pictures Teresa took were able to be transferred off but they may be the last ones loaded unless we fool with getting them off Alisha’s.
Thursday was completely socked in with fog and light drizzle but undaunted we went to see the terracotta warriors. I keep using the words amazing and incredible and awesome but there is no other way to describe them. When you walk in that first pit and see them all lined up it is just indescribable. The lengths they went to in order to guard this emperor in the afterlife just renders me speechless and that is no easy feat.
Josh continues to enjoy his bargaining skills and bought 2 suits today. I keep talking in Chinese and unfortunately get understood so they come back in rapid fire Chinese that I have no idea what it means but we do make a good team.
We went to a Tang Dynasty song and dance show which was incredibly beautiful both visually and musically. This was followed by a dumpling dinner consisting of 18 dumplings followed by hot pot soup. I was given special 14 vegetarian dumplings sharing 4 vegetarian ones with the meat eaters. Probably the best meal we have had on the tour so far- appetizers were most authentic and overall just superb.
While the rest of the tour went back to the hotel, Josh and another young man (32) on the trip took off to explore the nightlife of Xi’an. They are armed with the hotel address in Chinese so we are hoping for the best.
Internet access is also painfully slow at this hotel so I may not be able to upload pictures.
We leave tomorrow night for Guilin where the weather should be greatly improved and much warmer.
The Great Wall is, in a word, “awesome”. Just as amazing as everyone said it was. Gary made it far enough to earn a certificate for “climbing the wall” and Josh and I made it to “the top”. Words cannot describe the magnitude and incredibleness of this place and, of course, we were only experiencing a tiny piece of it. To think it goes for thousands more miles is just mind boggling. I got up there saying, this one is for you Kodi who would have scampered up like it was a playground. (Can you tell I miss him?)
On the way back we got the rare treat of driving through the Olympic Village under construction. We saw the bird nest stadium where the opening ceremonies will be, the swimming pavilion, track and field and other venues including the housing for the athletes. They have built huge luxury apartment buildings to house the athletes and have sold these to local folks who will move out during the Olympics (or maybe not move in until afterwards- it wasn’t clear) and then live in them afterwards.
In the afternoon we got a tour of the hutongs which are narrow alleyways with houses arranged around courtyards. I think it was the Manchurians who built these. They are tearing many of these down and forcing folks into high rises but are going to keep some as cultural icons. In order to do this they are putting a fresh face on the remaining ones in preparation for the Olympic Games. Everything happening in Beijing now is related to the Olympics and putting on a good face for the world. We got a guided walking tour then a rickshaw ride then a visit into one of the residences. The owner is a retired librarian from Beijing National Library- just can’t get away from them can I? The residences were owned by folks for hundreds of years then taken from them by Mao. Now 99% are owned by the government but some folks got to get theirs back from the government like this woman. It is a 16 room complex and we only saw about 5 of them. During Mao’s time the population of Beijing went from 100,000 to 9 million so hutong residences saw 5-11 people occupying each room with each person getting about 2 square meters of personal space. When the residences were returned to owners the “guests” were paid about 1 million rmb to relocate. There are no toilet or shower facilities within the residences but there is running hot and cold water. There are communal toilets on every block and showers are taken outside with hot water.
In the evening a group of us went walking and exploring. Around our hotel was pretty barren but we kept at it and finally hit a main area- found kettle corn, a supermarket, a KFC, 2 pizza huts although one only looked like one and didn’t say Pizza Hut but had Arabic writing on the sign which means they probably don’t serve pork and one Mr. Pizza.
Wednesday dawned very cold and very wet and did not improve. Luckily our only stop was the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor went twice a year to pray for and then thank “god” for a good harvest. Another amazing complex and architectural feat. The Temple itself is 38 meters high and 30 meters in diameter with no nails or concrete used. It is supported by 12 columns representing the months of the year.
We then flew to Xi’An where we had a very good dinner and then relaxed for the day ahead. In trying some of the Chinese candy Josh bought at the market, Teresa did break a crown but since Gary is traveling with a temporary crown, he just happened to have adhesive so all is well for now but it looks like a visit to a real dentist is imminent upon return. Could have been a whole lot worse!
Teresa’s camera also seems to not want to accept any batteries at all so we are now dependent on Alisha’s. The last pictures Teresa took were able to be transferred off but they may be the last ones loaded unless we fool with getting them off Alisha’s.
Thursday was completely socked in with fog and light drizzle but undaunted we went to see the terracotta warriors. I keep using the words amazing and incredible and awesome but there is no other way to describe them. When you walk in that first pit and see them all lined up it is just indescribable. The lengths they went to in order to guard this emperor in the afterlife just renders me speechless and that is no easy feat.
Josh continues to enjoy his bargaining skills and bought 2 suits today. I keep talking in Chinese and unfortunately get understood so they come back in rapid fire Chinese that I have no idea what it means but we do make a good team.
We went to a Tang Dynasty song and dance show which was incredibly beautiful both visually and musically. This was followed by a dumpling dinner consisting of 18 dumplings followed by hot pot soup. I was given special 14 vegetarian dumplings sharing 4 vegetarian ones with the meat eaters. Probably the best meal we have had on the tour so far- appetizers were most authentic and overall just superb.
While the rest of the tour went back to the hotel, Josh and another young man (32) on the trip took off to explore the nightlife of Xi’an. They are armed with the hotel address in Chinese so we are hoping for the best.
Internet access is also painfully slow at this hotel so I may not be able to upload pictures.
We leave tomorrow night for Guilin where the weather should be greatly improved and much warmer.
Beijing Monday November 12, 2007
An early start at 8:00 with arrival 18miles away at the Summer Palace about 1.5 hours later. Traffic is sheer gridlock. Summer Palace is where last Empress of Qing Dynasty spent the summer after traveling from the Forbidden City. We learned quite a bit about the dragon lady who with poisoning rivals and Machiavellian machinations managed to be the power behind the throne of baby emperors for many years. Quite the complex with a beautiful partially natural and partially man made lake- Kuming Lake.
Then to the Pearl Market where Rick showed us how to buy pearls and then hoped we would. Most of us resisted then off to a buffet lunch that was passable.
Afternoon was spent at Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City. Since Gary is still without luggage we managed to negotiate good prices for some hats. Tianamen Square is huge with thousands of tourists wandering about. Then off to the Forbidden City which is absolutely indescribable in its magnitude and complexity. At one point thousands of people lived in it- concubines all their lives never leaving a small residential area unless called upon by the emperor. We are all ready to go back and watch the Last Emperor again as it was actually filmed in the Forbidden City.
Then it was a Chinese style round table dinner- ok food but nothing exciting.
With most of the group jet lagged it was an early night.
Most notable impression is that my eyes are burning and the smell of coal is unmistakable.
Folks on the tour seem very nice but tour life is a bit of an adjustment.
Then to the Pearl Market where Rick showed us how to buy pearls and then hoped we would. Most of us resisted then off to a buffet lunch that was passable.
Afternoon was spent at Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City. Since Gary is still without luggage we managed to negotiate good prices for some hats. Tianamen Square is huge with thousands of tourists wandering about. Then off to the Forbidden City which is absolutely indescribable in its magnitude and complexity. At one point thousands of people lived in it- concubines all their lives never leaving a small residential area unless called upon by the emperor. We are all ready to go back and watch the Last Emperor again as it was actually filmed in the Forbidden City.
Then it was a Chinese style round table dinner- ok food but nothing exciting.
With most of the group jet lagged it was an early night.
Most notable impression is that my eyes are burning and the smell of coal is unmistakable.
Folks on the tour seem very nice but tour life is a bit of an adjustment.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Beijing-Saturday and Sunday
The Exchange ended today and if you have been reading the blog you already know this and I won’t repeat what I wrote there.
My flight to Beijing was uneventful and was actually interesting. Across the aisle from me was a man from Atlanta who was in Fuzhou for 10 days examining a product his company is purchasing from China. It is a local wood that is weather and bug resistant and his company is play equipment. It is actually cheaper to produce the parts in China and ship them to the East Coast. He said the containers then, rather than go back empty, are filled with our discarded concrete. The Chinese salvage the rebar and recycle the steel thus returning it to us cheaper than we can make it in the U.S. It costs $7,000 US to ship a container from China but only $700 to go back. Fascinating!
Arriving in Beijing was a trip. You have to understand that I was burdened with a 42 lb. suitcase, a 20 pound backpack if not more, and a 22 pound carry on suitcase. I cannot wait for my sherpas to arrive tomorrow night! Anyway all the information I had was that the Number 1 shuttle bus would get me close then I should take a cab to my hotel which thanks to Hui, my Chinese tutor, I had name and address written out in Chinese.
Leaving baggage claim I was assaulted by a taxi driver- I did ask him how much and he quoted an astronomical $160 RMB which I knew was a major rip off. He told me to name a price and all the way in I kept thinking- maybe I should have said $50 rmb which would have been a good deal. But I did not and was more determined than ever to find the shuttle. When I went to the desk to buy the ticket it was the usual Chinese chaos and it’s a lie that English is spoken at the airport and that they are very understanding when you try to speak Chinese. At this point I could not communicate very well in any language. Luckily a man next to me said $16 in English since I heard $60. So I put down my $16 and got my ticket. Then the companion to the ticket seller took pity on me and told me “last stop”. All this time my would be taxi driver is trying to tell me “bus does not go to hotel”. This I do know and I do know I will still need to take a taxi and now I believe I do that at the end of the line. So I go to find the #1 bus- I can read my numbers in Chinese and still have not figured out how that character was the number 1- 5,4,3 were very clear and I never saw #2 .
So, the trip in begins and I start counting stops thinking mine is the 6th. I am getting very worried when the first two times he stops it appears to be at the side of a very busy road. If you read my blog entry on traffic just multiply Fuzhou by 10 and you have Beijing. I picture my self trying to get my very heavy and too big for the steps and doorway bags down and out and then standing in the middle of a median strip on a busy road hoping for a taxi. As I look out the window and see empty cabs I think, did I make a mistake? He calls out other stops but he doesn’t get off.
I have left my bags in the front two seats with all the others and I sat at the back. I am a bit concerned that every time someone gets off they could easily take my bag(s) and I can do nothing about it. So when the ladies in front get off, I move up. The driver then seems to be talking to me so I figure he wants to know where I’m going so I tell him and he points to a big building and says that’s it. Fortunately the lady across the aisle looks at my precious piece of paper and explains to him that it’s not the right one. She and I then manage to communicate that I do indeed get off at the last stop and then will take a 10 minute taxi. I pray to Mazu (see the exhange blog) she is getting off at the last stop too. My prayers are answered when suddenly we pull into what appears to be a bus station and everyone gets off. I manage to get off and she tells me I have to get to the other side of the street to get the taxi. Remember that crossing the street is an act of faith and sheer pluck so with a backpack and pulling two suitcases I am unsure of my fate. But, the New Yorker in me takes over and I stay close to some natives and make it across without mishap. A cab comes and my guardian angel comes over and tells him where I want to go and then gets in her own cab and takes off. 10 minutes and 10 yuan later I make it to the hotel. For those of you who are counting- the total cost was thus 26 yuan or less than $4.
Shown to my room I am grateful to have made it safe and sound. I called Hui’s sister and spoke to her nephew who said he is taking me to the zoo tomorrow and we agree to meet at 8:30 am. At least I think it’s her nephew and I don’t get his name.
Next it is time for dinner. I do not want to be a sissy and eat in the hotel so I ask the concierge where I can go. I think this is literally the first time anyone has ever asked her such a thing as I believe most of the residents are here with tours if the 10 welcome signs are any indication. I follow her directions and pass a couple of restaurants. I had been thinking Pizza Hut might be a nice treat but I am in the only part of town without one nearby. But after 3 weeks of eating with Rosalind by my side I am brave and confident. The first place I go in does not seem happy I am there and when I explain I don’t want anything with meat or fish she just can’t deal and pretends not to understand me- I know I have that one down! I finally say thanks and leave. Undaunted and knowing the hotel is a backup, I venture into the next one that looks very clean. They got a kick out of me and using pictures, my 3 weeks knowledge from Rosalind and endless banquets and limited Chinese I get dinner. I thought I was getting marinated turnips (now one of my favorite dishes) but instead it appears to be sweet potato fries- how bad can that be?. I also order what she said was tofu but seemed more like egg custard fried and in a sweet/sour sauce. It may well have been soft tofu. In any case I got my protein and vegetable albeit a bit more fried than is good for me but extremely delicious. Had my other new favorite drink- coconut milk (although walnut milk is pretty darn good too) and all this for 38 yuan ($5.50 us more or less) and I couldn’t finish it all. I think the problem is not that they don’t understand the Chinese when I say vegetarian but disbelief so they figure I don’t know what I am saying. Anyway they were very nice people and it restored my faith in humankind.
Finally, a quiet evening in my room writing the other and this blog and labeling pictures in Windows. It is nice to have no obligations and just be able to sit around in my jammies and go to bed early.
Postnote for Sunday:
Sunday was another great day. My Chinese tutor’s nephew and his girlfriend picked me up and we went to the zoo. The subway was a great experience and I got to see more Pandas- how much better can it get. Then we went to lunch at a vegetarian restaurant- a new experience for them and for me as it was all tofu but made to taste like all types of meat and fish. Delicious as usual. The generosity and friendliness of most of the folks I have met is astounding. It is also going to be very strange hanging out with Americans! IF the ones I met at breakfast are any indication I am worried- the napkins were too small, the juice wasn't up to snuff, etc..... I said just be glad you have napkins as my experience the past 3 weeks was hit and miss- they were aghast. There is life without napkins!
I then went out and found a fruit stand and some pastries for dinner- quite the treat after so many huge meals. Now I await the arrival of Josh and Gary.
Not sure how often I will post as this hotel charges for Internet access. I am hoping they all will not but we are here until Wednesday.
My flight to Beijing was uneventful and was actually interesting. Across the aisle from me was a man from Atlanta who was in Fuzhou for 10 days examining a product his company is purchasing from China. It is a local wood that is weather and bug resistant and his company is play equipment. It is actually cheaper to produce the parts in China and ship them to the East Coast. He said the containers then, rather than go back empty, are filled with our discarded concrete. The Chinese salvage the rebar and recycle the steel thus returning it to us cheaper than we can make it in the U.S. It costs $7,000 US to ship a container from China but only $700 to go back. Fascinating!
Arriving in Beijing was a trip. You have to understand that I was burdened with a 42 lb. suitcase, a 20 pound backpack if not more, and a 22 pound carry on suitcase. I cannot wait for my sherpas to arrive tomorrow night! Anyway all the information I had was that the Number 1 shuttle bus would get me close then I should take a cab to my hotel which thanks to Hui, my Chinese tutor, I had name and address written out in Chinese.
Leaving baggage claim I was assaulted by a taxi driver- I did ask him how much and he quoted an astronomical $160 RMB which I knew was a major rip off. He told me to name a price and all the way in I kept thinking- maybe I should have said $50 rmb which would have been a good deal. But I did not and was more determined than ever to find the shuttle. When I went to the desk to buy the ticket it was the usual Chinese chaos and it’s a lie that English is spoken at the airport and that they are very understanding when you try to speak Chinese. At this point I could not communicate very well in any language. Luckily a man next to me said $16 in English since I heard $60. So I put down my $16 and got my ticket. Then the companion to the ticket seller took pity on me and told me “last stop”. All this time my would be taxi driver is trying to tell me “bus does not go to hotel”. This I do know and I do know I will still need to take a taxi and now I believe I do that at the end of the line. So I go to find the #1 bus- I can read my numbers in Chinese and still have not figured out how that character was the number 1- 5,4,3 were very clear and I never saw #2 .
So, the trip in begins and I start counting stops thinking mine is the 6th. I am getting very worried when the first two times he stops it appears to be at the side of a very busy road. If you read my blog entry on traffic just multiply Fuzhou by 10 and you have Beijing. I picture my self trying to get my very heavy and too big for the steps and doorway bags down and out and then standing in the middle of a median strip on a busy road hoping for a taxi. As I look out the window and see empty cabs I think, did I make a mistake? He calls out other stops but he doesn’t get off.
I have left my bags in the front two seats with all the others and I sat at the back. I am a bit concerned that every time someone gets off they could easily take my bag(s) and I can do nothing about it. So when the ladies in front get off, I move up. The driver then seems to be talking to me so I figure he wants to know where I’m going so I tell him and he points to a big building and says that’s it. Fortunately the lady across the aisle looks at my precious piece of paper and explains to him that it’s not the right one. She and I then manage to communicate that I do indeed get off at the last stop and then will take a 10 minute taxi. I pray to Mazu (see the exhange blog) she is getting off at the last stop too. My prayers are answered when suddenly we pull into what appears to be a bus station and everyone gets off. I manage to get off and she tells me I have to get to the other side of the street to get the taxi. Remember that crossing the street is an act of faith and sheer pluck so with a backpack and pulling two suitcases I am unsure of my fate. But, the New Yorker in me takes over and I stay close to some natives and make it across without mishap. A cab comes and my guardian angel comes over and tells him where I want to go and then gets in her own cab and takes off. 10 minutes and 10 yuan later I make it to the hotel. For those of you who are counting- the total cost was thus 26 yuan or less than $4.
Shown to my room I am grateful to have made it safe and sound. I called Hui’s sister and spoke to her nephew who said he is taking me to the zoo tomorrow and we agree to meet at 8:30 am. At least I think it’s her nephew and I don’t get his name.
Next it is time for dinner. I do not want to be a sissy and eat in the hotel so I ask the concierge where I can go. I think this is literally the first time anyone has ever asked her such a thing as I believe most of the residents are here with tours if the 10 welcome signs are any indication. I follow her directions and pass a couple of restaurants. I had been thinking Pizza Hut might be a nice treat but I am in the only part of town without one nearby. But after 3 weeks of eating with Rosalind by my side I am brave and confident. The first place I go in does not seem happy I am there and when I explain I don’t want anything with meat or fish she just can’t deal and pretends not to understand me- I know I have that one down! I finally say thanks and leave. Undaunted and knowing the hotel is a backup, I venture into the next one that looks very clean. They got a kick out of me and using pictures, my 3 weeks knowledge from Rosalind and endless banquets and limited Chinese I get dinner. I thought I was getting marinated turnips (now one of my favorite dishes) but instead it appears to be sweet potato fries- how bad can that be?. I also order what she said was tofu but seemed more like egg custard fried and in a sweet/sour sauce. It may well have been soft tofu. In any case I got my protein and vegetable albeit a bit more fried than is good for me but extremely delicious. Had my other new favorite drink- coconut milk (although walnut milk is pretty darn good too) and all this for 38 yuan ($5.50 us more or less) and I couldn’t finish it all. I think the problem is not that they don’t understand the Chinese when I say vegetarian but disbelief so they figure I don’t know what I am saying. Anyway they were very nice people and it restored my faith in humankind.
Finally, a quiet evening in my room writing the other and this blog and labeling pictures in Windows. It is nice to have no obligations and just be able to sit around in my jammies and go to bed early.
Postnote for Sunday:
Sunday was another great day. My Chinese tutor’s nephew and his girlfriend picked me up and we went to the zoo. The subway was a great experience and I got to see more Pandas- how much better can it get. Then we went to lunch at a vegetarian restaurant- a new experience for them and for me as it was all tofu but made to taste like all types of meat and fish. Delicious as usual. The generosity and friendliness of most of the folks I have met is astounding. It is also going to be very strange hanging out with Americans! IF the ones I met at breakfast are any indication I am worried- the napkins were too small, the juice wasn't up to snuff, etc..... I said just be glad you have napkins as my experience the past 3 weeks was hit and miss- they were aghast. There is life without napkins!
I then went out and found a fruit stand and some pastries for dinner- quite the treat after so many huge meals. Now I await the arrival of Josh and Gary.
Not sure how often I will post as this hotel charges for Internet access. I am hoping they all will not but we are here until Wednesday.
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