Beijing-Saturday and Sunday

The Exchange ended today and if you have been reading the blog you already know this and I won’t repeat what I wrote there.

My flight to Beijing was uneventful and was actually interesting. Across the aisle from me was a man from Atlanta who was in Fuzhou for 10 days examining a product his company is purchasing from China. It is a local wood that is weather and bug resistant and his company is play equipment. It is actually cheaper to produce the parts in China and ship them to the East Coast. He said the containers then, rather than go back empty, are filled with our discarded concrete. The Chinese salvage the rebar and recycle the steel thus returning it to us cheaper than we can make it in the U.S. It costs $7,000 US to ship a container from China but only $700 to go back. Fascinating!

Arriving in Beijing was a trip. You have to understand that I was burdened with a 42 lb. suitcase, a 20 pound backpack if not more, and a 22 pound carry on suitcase. I cannot wait for my sherpas to arrive tomorrow night! Anyway all the information I had was that the Number 1 shuttle bus would get me close then I should take a cab to my hotel which thanks to Hui, my Chinese tutor, I had name and address written out in Chinese.

Leaving baggage claim I was assaulted by a taxi driver- I did ask him how much and he quoted an astronomical $160 RMB which I knew was a major rip off. He told me to name a price and all the way in I kept thinking- maybe I should have said $50 rmb which would have been a good deal. But I did not and was more determined than ever to find the shuttle. When I went to the desk to buy the ticket it was the usual Chinese chaos and it’s a lie that English is spoken at the airport and that they are very understanding when you try to speak Chinese. At this point I could not communicate very well in any language. Luckily a man next to me said $16 in English since I heard $60. So I put down my $16 and got my ticket. Then the companion to the ticket seller took pity on me and told me “last stop”. All this time my would be taxi driver is trying to tell me “bus does not go to hotel”. This I do know and I do know I will still need to take a taxi and now I believe I do that at the end of the line. So I go to find the #1 bus- I can read my numbers in Chinese and still have not figured out how that character was the number 1- 5,4,3 were very clear and I never saw #2 .

So, the trip in begins and I start counting stops thinking mine is the 6th. I am getting very worried when the first two times he stops it appears to be at the side of a very busy road. If you read my blog entry on traffic just multiply Fuzhou by 10 and you have Beijing. I picture my self trying to get my very heavy and too big for the steps and doorway bags down and out and then standing in the middle of a median strip on a busy road hoping for a taxi. As I look out the window and see empty cabs I think, did I make a mistake? He calls out other stops but he doesn’t get off.

I have left my bags in the front two seats with all the others and I sat at the back. I am a bit concerned that every time someone gets off they could easily take my bag(s) and I can do nothing about it. So when the ladies in front get off, I move up. The driver then seems to be talking to me so I figure he wants to know where I’m going so I tell him and he points to a big building and says that’s it. Fortunately the lady across the aisle looks at my precious piece of paper and explains to him that it’s not the right one. She and I then manage to communicate that I do indeed get off at the last stop and then will take a 10 minute taxi. I pray to Mazu (see the exhange blog) she is getting off at the last stop too. My prayers are answered when suddenly we pull into what appears to be a bus station and everyone gets off. I manage to get off and she tells me I have to get to the other side of the street to get the taxi. Remember that crossing the street is an act of faith and sheer pluck so with a backpack and pulling two suitcases I am unsure of my fate. But, the New Yorker in me takes over and I stay close to some natives and make it across without mishap. A cab comes and my guardian angel comes over and tells him where I want to go and then gets in her own cab and takes off. 10 minutes and 10 yuan later I make it to the hotel. For those of you who are counting- the total cost was thus 26 yuan or less than $4.

Shown to my room I am grateful to have made it safe and sound. I called Hui’s sister and spoke to her nephew who said he is taking me to the zoo tomorrow and we agree to meet at 8:30 am. At least I think it’s her nephew and I don’t get his name.

Next it is time for dinner. I do not want to be a sissy and eat in the hotel so I ask the concierge where I can go. I think this is literally the first time anyone has ever asked her such a thing as I believe most of the residents are here with tours if the 10 welcome signs are any indication. I follow her directions and pass a couple of restaurants. I had been thinking Pizza Hut might be a nice treat but I am in the only part of town without one nearby. But after 3 weeks of eating with Rosalind by my side I am brave and confident. The first place I go in does not seem happy I am there and when I explain I don’t want anything with meat or fish she just can’t deal and pretends not to understand me- I know I have that one down! I finally say thanks and leave. Undaunted and knowing the hotel is a backup, I venture into the next one that looks very clean. They got a kick out of me and using pictures, my 3 weeks knowledge from Rosalind and endless banquets and limited Chinese I get dinner. I thought I was getting marinated turnips (now one of my favorite dishes) but instead it appears to be sweet potato fries- how bad can that be?. I also order what she said was tofu but seemed more like egg custard fried and in a sweet/sour sauce. It may well have been soft tofu. In any case I got my protein and vegetable albeit a bit more fried than is good for me but extremely delicious. Had my other new favorite drink- coconut milk (although walnut milk is pretty darn good too) and all this for 38 yuan ($5.50 us more or less) and I couldn’t finish it all. I think the problem is not that they don’t understand the Chinese when I say vegetarian but disbelief so they figure I don’t know what I am saying. Anyway they were very nice people and it restored my faith in humankind.

Finally, a quiet evening in my room writing the other and this blog and labeling pictures in Windows. It is nice to have no obligations and just be able to sit around in my jammies and go to bed early.

Postnote for Sunday:
Sunday was another great day. My Chinese tutor’s nephew and his girlfriend picked me up and we went to the zoo. The subway was a great experience and I got to see more Pandas- how much better can it get. Then we went to lunch at a vegetarian restaurant- a new experience for them and for me as it was all tofu but made to taste like all types of meat and fish. Delicious as usual. The generosity and friendliness of most of the folks I have met is astounding. It is also going to be very strange hanging out with Americans! IF the ones I met at breakfast are any indication I am worried- the napkins were too small, the juice wasn't up to snuff, etc..... I said just be glad you have napkins as my experience the past 3 weeks was hit and miss- they were aghast. There is life without napkins!

I then went out and found a fruit stand and some pastries for dinner- quite the treat after so many huge meals. Now I await the arrival of Josh and Gary.

Not sure how often I will post as this hotel charges for Internet access. I am hoping they all will not but we are here until Wednesday.